Open-back type shoe construction



June 1, 1948. RQGOFF 2,442,511

OPEN-BACK TYPE SHOE CONSTRUCTION h Filed July 30, 1945 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 June 1, 1948. A. M. ROGOFF 2,442,511

OPEN-BACK TYPE SHOE CONSTRUCTION Filed July 30, 1945 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented June 1, 1948 uNrre-o orsn nacn yresnon'oeNs rRuc'noN Application July 30, 1945,:SerialNo. 601,119.

Claims?" (0 1 This invention 2: relates to 1 improvements} ;in. shoes-and their: method of manufacture; and.- pecially to ladiesvshoes-ofthe type commonlyrre-c ferred to as:open-backishoes;--

Ant object of theinventionis toi-improvelshoes 8 and methods of making shoes A in generaL: and to devise ya cheap, eflic-ientand rapid method -of., manufacturing --ladies:- shoes. of .the.=open.-back-; type while .providing-ior better -fit-,--improved.ap..-;- pearancel and simplicity oficonstructiomr Other w-.l objects 'will appear. from the following-descriptiong.

In the-.accompanyingldrawings:

Fig. 1 is a plan view cia shoe uppermember;

Fig.2 is a plan view-ofthe shoe. lining member 15 of the invention;

Fig. 3 is another plan view. illustrating-rattaches meritv of the lining: member:to-theupper-memben; i

Fig. 4 is a plan view ofnanlinner sole member;

Fig. 5 is a plan-view illustrating attachment-cf .720 the inner sole member to the lining-member;

Fig.6 is a cross section taken on thedint-fi of Fig. 5; r

Fig. 7 isianother plarrview -illustrating another step in the method ofrthe invention-gs,

Fig. 8 is a cross.sectiontakencn -theiine-fi fl of Fig; 7; and.

Fig. 9 is a perspective view of the finishedsho'e oftheinvention.

In: constructing .my-iimprovedeshoe l provide ,a shoe top or upper member, Ill-which may bei composed .of :any suitable-material generallyhsedr for. thisnpurp ose; and .preferably consisting ,pfza fabriclmaterial, The uppenmemb'ereis cutout; in, conventional. manner inza shapez-common-i-td ladies shoes of" the. openv-rback 'type as :shown r in Fig. 1. Numeral ..I2-denctesa v-shapedropen-r ing atlthe. itoe vportion of the upper-g: l 4" denotes an elongated slot. formin zthelitongue warea and '1. lfi indicates aeheel strapportion r I next provideL-a lining membe'rew. (Figs-2) which. may be. offabric orothenimaterial, land which is similarly formed. with..a M-shapedopen', ing 20,. anelongatedslot hZZii-nd a heel StIaDlZA Thevgeneral shapev of rtheliriin'gnisisimilar :to'lthait A5 of the uppermember-Afig -however, the lining is purposely made smaller all along its outer border so that when the"'lining:;i s *placedon the upper, the latter extends beyond the edges of the.lining to provide a marginal edge 261"as'maybe'ibetteri50 seen in Fig. 3. In addition theiining'member" is further -.cut'.;awayl att;the;toe:portion and at the quarter portions to leaveopenings or notches i 28;.and'3il respectively, which'fprovide clearances forsubsequent stitching operational- The liningmember is preferablji-iprovided with an;.unfin'ished side having a softi-iflannel-likeesure facet Thisdunfinished sides-is :cbvered ithI-an adhesive-"stench aszrubber cementvor other sub: stance over its entire surface excepting an outer 60 1. seamen e 2 marginal border vapproximatelyprne-haliE to three; quarters of an inch widewhich is left uncovere'de b t-the cement. The treated. side of the :linin is then cemented to the-upper member in 'the -mannerindicatedinFigfi. 7

The"-free1-aedges-wof ;the -toe portions ofrupper Iwand lining 18 are then secured together andie finishedalby; stitchingna cord- -member .34' along. 1

these portionsgas haszalso been'indicated-in Figs-r 3. si'i'riilarlygireecredgesz of: the upper and lining along the :back portionsiaretsecured togetherrand -i finished-1 by; meansiofra second card member" 365 It is pointed out that the notchesilland 30in the Jiningememberare: of: some convenient width -"'such:asiortexamiple-foneeeighth 6f;an-inch;which:-

penmits-ithecordfmembers Stiand 36th he stitched in iqpla'ce ,withoutircompletely securing the front and'reasrzedges ofthaliriingtmthe upper-and permitti'ngaa marginal ed'gecportion ofithe liner I remain unattachedi so thatiit :can: betfreely \folded' away from theupper membera Themppen andxlining: assembly is temporarily laid: aside :and- -an inner :sole :memb'err lfl': (Fig. '4) is providedg to which'is cemented a covering lor 1 sock liriing fi which is formed with overlapping he'el and to'e portions-folded over :the edges of the. innensole "and secured as shown in Fig; .4.

I fiext arrange' the upper member I'll above-the finished -side ofz the insole memben 4i); and then stitch the mncemented --inarg1n'a1 edge -p0rtions*= oftlreuiiiing member; lettifree :by': the notches 28 and 305*10 the insole; =-leaving' th'e overlapping inthe"manner'iilustratedin'Fig: 7." I may also desire'atthi's'point'to' attachto the upp er portion" a fastening" of spine convenient type v such as the; bdcklerflfillustrated in-Fi'gs.t5 a'rxdfi. The-strap t portiorrof themppertis designed, to engage" with thehuckle; If desired, a suitable stiifening mem;

ber "such? "as :the shank element i8 inserted i against thexunder side of't he inner sole member and thereafter an outer sole"48"is applied over the innersole'in somersuitable manner as for e'x-t amplebyla conventional cementing process,

The method and construction described may be subiecttovvarious modifications, both in arrangementrand in materials employed LOtheit types of. shoes than the particular class referred to may to save a great deal of time, do less work, and

consequently to achieve material savings in the manufacture of a shoe. At the same time, the lasting operation carried out under these conditions tends to provide better shape and appearance with a minimum of efiort since the cemented relation of the two members tends to permit a certain amount of yieldability which permits the two members to adjust themselves relative to one another in producing a properly lasted shape. This lasted effect is one which takes place over the whole shoe upper without being dependent upon shaping effects obtained by stitching or fastening the upper member progressively along the edges to a sole member in the conventional manner.

It is also a desirable attribute of the method of the invention that the sock lining member is already installed during the process, thus tending to eliminate a separate application of this member after the main body of the shoe has been finished. Another striking advantage of the shoe is its exceptional flexibility as to the different types of sole materials dealt with. It is not necessary in the method of the invention to utilize a so-called heavy sole or heavy platform. A very thin sole works equally as well as a heavy sole. Attention is also directed to the feature of cutting notches in the lasting member which provides a free marginal lining edge which may be stitched to an insole while leaving the upper member with an unattached overlapping marginal edge. Various other advantages are also found, both in connection with the shoe construction and the method of manufacture described.

While I have shown a preferred embodiment of the invention, it is understood that various other changes and additions may be resorted to in connection with the invention as defined by the appended claims.

I claim:

1. That improved method of making shoes which comprises providing a lining member with marginal side edges which are defined by front and rear notches, attaching the lining member to an upper member throughout a part only of the width of the lining member to leave the marginal edges of the lining member separated from the upper, then applying a cord member at front and rear portions of adjacent edges of the lining member and upper member, said cord member being so applied as to be separated from the lower edges of the lining by said notches, then stitching the marginal side edges of the lining, lying between those edges secured by the cord members, to an inner sole member which has been covered with a sock lining, then lasting the shoe, then securing the marginal portions of the upper member to an inner sole, and then applying an outer sole member.

2. An improved shoe of the open-back type comprising an outer sole, an inner sole secured to the outer sole, an upper member cut away to provide an open heel portion and an open toe portion, marginal edges of the upper being folded around the under side of the inner sole and secured between this member and the outer sole, a sock lining secured upon the inner sole, a tab portion integral with the sock lining folded around the edge of the inner sole at points occurring along the open toe portions of the shoe, a lining member secured to the upper, said lining being stitched to the said sock lining and the inner sole.

3. An improved shoe of the open-back type comprising an outer sole, an inner sole secured to the outer sole, an upper member cut away to provide an open heel portion and an open toe portion, marginal edges of the upper being folded around the under side of the inner sole and secured between this member and the outer sole} a sock lining secured upon the inner sole; 9. tab portion integral with the sock lining folded around the edge of the inner sole at points occurring along the open heel portion of the shoe; a. lining member secured to the upper, said lining having a marginal edge folded over and stitched to the said sock lining and the inner sole. 7

4. An improved shoe of the open-back type comprising an outer sole; an inner sole secured to the outer solej an upper member cut away to provide an open heel portion and an open toe portion; marginal edges of the upper being folded around the under side of the inner sole and secured between this member and theouter sole; a sock lining secured upon the inner sole, means for covering the edges of the inner sole at points occurring along the open toe portion of the shoe; a lining member cemented to the upper, said lining having front and rear edge portions secured to adjacent edges of the said upper by lines, of stitching; said lining further being formed with notched marginal side edges terminating within the said lines of stitching; and said notched marginal side edges being secured to the sock lining and inner sole.

5. In a method of making shoes of the openback type, the steps which include providing an upper member and a lining member, said lining member having interrupted marginal edges; securing front and rear portions of the interrupted marginal edges to adjacent edges of the upper by lines of stitching which leave intervening side edges of the lining free to be folded back upon themselves; stitching the free side edges to an insole member while the side edges are in a partly folded position with extremities of the said front and rear stitched edges lying against the insole member; said insole member including a sock lining with folded tab portions secured at the under side of the inner sole; slip lasting; secur-.

ing upper marginal portions at the bottom of the insole, and applying an outer sole member. ABRAHAM M. ROGOFF.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file of this patent:

' UNITED STATES PATENTS 

